Cute 'n' Creepy Art by Ashleigh Roberts

• Home •

Ashleigh Roberts was born in Chula Vista, California. She is currently learning and building her skills in digital art, web development, and game design. Her art is a pinch of beautiful, a pinch of ugly, 1.5 cups of bright, 1 cup of dark, and 2 cups of weird stirred vigorously and baked at high heat for 1-8 hours for each piece.

• My Latest Work •

Colorful Pigeons

Pigeon Photobombs Eye

Cow Abduction

• The Products •

Wall Art

Home Decor

Apparel

Phone Cases

Stationary

Lifestyle

Beach

Totes & Pouches

• From Pencil To Print •

This is the process in which I usually create my art, put as simply as possibly. I usually work on letter (8.5in x 11in) size paper at at least 300ppi in either Photoshop or Clip Studio Paint or both.

Check It Out

Step 1 - PENCIL

Non-digital option: I draw the initial sketch. I try not to draw too roughly to prevent leaving any pencil markings that'll be difficult to erase when I do step 2.

Digital option: I'll draw the pencil sketch on the bottom-most layer.

Step 2 - PEN/VECTOR LINES

Non-digital option: I prefer to use non-smudge pens (MICRON pens of various sizes). Once I'm done I'll erase all the pencil from the paper. I then scan the image onto my computer.

Digital option: I then draw pen or vector lines (for nice, clean lines) on a new layer on top of the pencil layer. I'll hide the pencil layer afterwards since it's no longer needed and only used as reference. If I'm adding any monochrome (black and white) patterns, I'll usually add them now as well.

Additional Info

⚠

Make sure before adding any colors that your monitor is not set too bright or too dark! Usually the default settings are fine. This will be important when printing your art.

Also, if you're familar with color modes, work with RGB mode first. It gives you more colors to work with then other color modes (like CMYK). Photoshop in particular will let you know if the color you're working with is "out-of-gamut", in other words the color you chose will look different when printed!

See below for more info.

TIP: I'm very particular when it comes to making sure ALL pixels are covered in the color they need to be or not transparent where they don't need to be. For this reason I work with all of my tools with the anti-alias OFF. Anti-alias creates extra pixels around every pixel placed on the image. It's a great effect for photos and preferable to some but I can't stand it! Having all of my tools set with OUT it allows me to make perfect color-specific selections when I'm trying to shade, add any patterns and textures, etc. The blur I add at the end of finishing my images compensate for the crispness of having anti-alias off.

Step 3 - BASIC COLOR

Non-digital option: On the scanned image, I'll change the threshold to make the image strictly black and white (NO grey) before coloring. I'll also need to make all the white transparent.

It's all digital From Here: I add flat, basic colors onto a new layer beneath the pen, vectors, and pattern layers.

Layers Example

Step 4 - SHADING

I create a new layer directly on top of the basic color layer for the shading. I usually use a darker hue of the basic color that I'm trying to shade over (sometimes I create more then one shading layer, keeping the darkest shade on top).

BACKGROUND LAYER (OPTIONAL)

This is also where I'd add a background layer if I wanted and place it as the bottom-most layer.

Step 5 - HIGHLIGHTING

I create a new layer directly on top of the top-most shading layer for the highlighting. I use a lighter hue of the basic color that I'm trying to highlight over or sometimes just strictly white. Sometimes the highlights have to be on top of the pen/vector layer.

Step 6 - FINAL

click image

In this order: Add my signature digitally (if needed), flatten all layers, add any borders, and apply a blur to the entire image. For printing reasons I have to ensure that the entire image is at least an eighth of an inch away from the edges, or keep in mind that whatever is that close to the edge might be cut off. It's now finished!

Step 7 - OPTIONAL

Of course if you want to actually print a physical copy there's a few things to keep in mind first.

Make sure your monitor's brightness level isn't too bright or dark (as stated earlier on this page)
Convert the color mode in your art program to "CMYK". This will give you a more accurate representation on how it's going to look when it is printed. If you don't convert it, the printing company you chose to print your work will most likely automatically convert it anyway.
(as stated earlier) Ensure that the entire image is at least an eighth of an inch away from the edges, or keep in mind that whatever is that close to the edge might be cut off.
For images saturated in color I recommend getting them printed on "cardstock" paper at 65lbs.

☝Tip: Want a physical print? CMYK mode. Want to keep it digital? RGB mode